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Pennsylvania
Dutch Country |
Time seems to stand still
in the Pennsylvania Dutch
Country. Age-old traditions, brought to America centuries ago have kept
life peaceful. Acres of rich farmland attracted many settlers, primarily German
and Swiss, to Pennsylvania
in the early 1700s. Since then the Plain People, as they are often called have
held on to their ancestral way of life with a passion. The ways of their elders
have permeated everything from their work ethics to their clothing. Devoutly
religious, the Pennsylvania Dutch include Amish, Mennonite and Brethren faiths,
among others.
HISTORY
Although there are many
different religious traditions in the Pennsylvania Dutch Country, it is commonly
believed that life, as it is still lived here, began with the Swiss and German
Mennonite sects of the late 17th and early 18th centuries. Suffering religious
persecution for some unorthodox views such as adult baptism, Anabaptist leader
Conrad Beissel came to the new world of America
in 1720, carrying with him the Anabaptist traditions. Enticed by rich farmland
and the promise of religious freedom offered by William Penn, Beissel originally
settled in Germantown, near Philadelphia before moving to what would later become
Lancaster County.
Beissel began converting
locals to his strict religious ways, and by 1735 the small religious community
had firmly established itself as a self-sufficient sect. Making their own tools
and growing their own crops proved an enjoyable way of life and the community
began to grow. By 1740 the Cloister, as they were then known, had built a considerable
reputation for their singing talents and their skill with the printing press.
In September 1773 Lancaster
County received a visit from President Washington as he toured the country.
During this time, the city of Lancaster
was the largest inland city in America. It remained so for the better part of
its first one hundred years, in fact. Even more remarkable, not to mention unique,
is that for one day in September 1777, as congress fled British invaders, the
city became the US Capital. This short-lived honor is one of the most unique
events in the history of the Pennsylvania Dutch country.
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Country Church |
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In 1859, John Wise, a scientist
and inventor from Lancaster County, gave the world airmail. Wise had always
been fascinated with all things aerial, and once tied his cat to a home made
parachute and dropped it off the church steeple to a safe landing on the ground
below. His keen interest led to many balloon experiments through which he discovered
many things about the atmosphere, including "the great river of air" in high
altitudes, what we now call the jet stream. Some of his inventions, like the
parachute's ripcord safety mechanism, are still in use today.
In 1860 Lancaster County
organized the area's first volunteer fire department. Made up primarily of wealthy
landowners, the fire department included among its ranks lawyers and judges,
physicians, merchants, and businessmen. One time president James Buchanan was
a member, and held the respectable duty of carrying the long ladders, as was
Supreme Court Justice Jasper Yeats, who was in charge of keeping the water buckets
orderly.
Milton Hershey, founder
of the well-loved Hershey chocolate company, began life as a choclateer in the
city of Lancaster. In 1905, Hershey built the predecessor of the modern chocolate
factory and by the end of the first decade the Hershey Company had become the
largest chocolate producer in the world. Two years later he developed Hershey
Park to help entertain his employees and their families. Today the park
is known as the cleanest theme park in America. The success of the Hershey Company
also led to the Milton
Hershey School. In 1910, its first year of operation, the school had
only four boys who lived and studied in the home Hershey was born in. The school
is still running and is the largest of its kind in the US, teaching more than
1,000 pre-kindergarten through grade 12 students.
Milton Hershey was considered
a great humanitarian by those who knew him. During the Great depression, he
kept people working by adding to his factory and developing a small community
for his employees, offering comfortable homes, green spaces and, of course,
recreation parks. This community known as Hershey,
PA is
a thriving and fascinating place to visit.
CLIMATE
Pennsylvania Dutch Country experiences moderate summers, with temperatures averaging
in the low 80s Fahrenheit, (mid 20s Celsius). Summers tend to be warm and humid,
lending to the strong agricultural nature of the community so light clothing
is advisable. Snow falls fairly regularly, covering the fields as far as the
eye can see, but the streets and highways are fairly well maintained. The higher
humidity leads to a penetrating cold, so layering and warm clothing is a must.
Winter temperatures settle in the low 30s Fahrenheit (just below 0 Celsius).
TRANSPORTATION
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Lancaster
County |
The Pennsylvania
Turnpike touches the northern part of the territory, and minor highways
connect with the center of activity in the south. Amtrak
offers multiple daily trips through Lancaster on one of three train lines, Keystone,
the Pennsylvanian and the Three Rivers. While driving is possible, the religious
and cultural beliefs of the Pennsylvania Dutch don't favor that mode of transportation.
In light of this, it is less offensive (not to mention more fun) to tour the
country by horse drawn carriage, bicycle or hot air balloon, available for rent
in Lancaster. However, if the thought of touring the countryside at such a laid
back pace does not meet your travel plans, Red
Rose transit runs extensive bus tours of the farmland. And of course,
horse drawn carriages can also be rented in many of the towns and make for a
fun and leisurely way to tour the Pennsylvania Dutch Country.
ATTRACTIONS
Pennsylvania Dutch Country is known for its agriculture, so it is not surprising
that it is also known for its fabulous cooking. Restaurants
are everywhere, and they all offer home style cooking, as though you were right
on the farm. The region is also famous for shoofly pie, a local favorite, funnel
cakes and for bringing pretzels to America. Here you can try them the way they
were meant to be, home made and fresh. Always a nice addition to dinner is one
of the many locally brewed wines. The wine here has a taste as distinctive as
its legend. Local superstition has it that for three minutes on Christmas night,
all the water in all the wells throughout the land will turn into wine.
For the Pennsylvania Dutch,
food often takes on a medicinal role as well. A traditional headache cure was
to wear a buckwheat cake on the top of the head. Rheumatism was often treated
by drinking an unusual blend of dandelion roots soaked in whisky, or by washing
the affected body part in potato water after it cools. Mind you, it was also
once believed that on the Christmas Eve night cows are given the power of speech
and anyone born on Christmas Day will understand what they say.
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Pennsylvania Dutch Country Pretzels |
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Many lovers of fine food
harbor a deep love of sweets, so a visit to Hershey is not to be missed. Home
to the famous Hershey
Chocolate Company, and Hershey Park, with chocolate Kiss street lights,
rides and shows for the whole family, Hershey, PA remains a popular vacation
destination.
The city of Lancaster is
the hub of Pennsylvania Dutch Country, and offers many surprises to first time
visitors. Penn
Square is the center of Lancaster activity, and is easily recognized
by the Soldiers
And Sailors Monument. The monument honors the fighting men of the American
armed forces. Not far from Penn Square is the oldest running theater in America,
the Fulton
Opera House. Built in 1852, and named after famous inventor Robert Fulton,
the stage has been host to many world-renowned performers including the Barrymores,
Sarah Bernhardt, and Al Jolson.
Close to Penn Square is
the Central
Market, where farmers, bakers and butchers sell their wares. The market
has been running since the mid-1700s. Lancaster is also home to the nations
oldest operating tobacco shop. Demuth's
Tobacco Shop opened its doors in 1770 and survived economic recession,
revolution and war by selling tobacco and snuff to such distinguished gentlemen
as Jasper Yeats and General Edward Hand. The shop was owned and operated by
the same family for more than two centuries.
Visitors to Pennsylvania
Dutch Country can also visit the fully restored
home of America's 15th president, James Buchanan, the only president
to come from Pennsylvania. It was from this home that President Buchanan made
a name for himself, and a considerable fortune, practicing law.
Horse and buggy rides through
the peaceful countryside are surely one of the greatest ways to relax and experience
life in rural Pennsylvania. Tours are available from most towns and are not
to be missed on any trip. Along the way sightseers can even visit the home and
store used by Paramount Pictures while filming "Witness", starring Harrison
Ford and Kelly McGillis.
There are also many less
famous but equally popular attractions to be found here. Dutch
Wonderland Family Amusement Complex in the heart of Pennsylvania Dutch
Country, for example, offers rides and entertainment for the whole family. The
park opened in 1963, and has grown steadily ever since. The rides are not too
extreme, and are geared more for the younger children and parents. Also designed
for family fun is the Maize
Maze at Cherry-Crest
Farms. Much like a traditional hedge maze, the maize maze twists and
turns through 5 acres to entertain both young and old alike. Unlike the traditional
hedge maze, this one is designed in a cornfield. As laid back as the Pennsylvania
Dutch Country is, there is never a shortage of wonderful things see and do.
ACCOMMODATION
Lancaster is the heart
of Pennsylvania Dutch Country, but there is no lack of variety when looking
for lodgings. Hotels and motels are reasonably priced and can be found in most
towns, and there are many campgrounds throughout the county. Many campgrounds
are found near cities with tourist attractions, like the KOA
Kampground of Hershey. Hotels are less common around the countryside,
but visitors can find many bed and breakfast stops, as well as a few farmhouses
with rooms for rent. This is a fun and fascinating opportunity for visitors
interested in learning about this way of life. It is a good idea to ask about
modern amenities like electricity and indoor plumbing when staying with locals,
as some farms do not have them. The visitor's bureau keeps up to date listings
of farms that welcome visitors.